Odor Remover

Removing Odors in Refrigerators With OdorXit Concentrate

Refrigerators and freezers that have been turned off and left closed have a truly unique odor that is normally very difficult to eliminate. However, with a little work and OdorXit you can recover even the worst smelling unit you have ever seen. You may want to take the unit outside to do this first step so that you can use a garden hose to rinse out the really bad stuff.

Completely defrost the unit. Remove the spoiled food by washing the entire interior of the refrigerator with detergent and hot water. If the freezer is not built into the walls of the unit use a long thin brush to get between the freezer and the wall. Rinse completely and wipe dry..

Spray the entire interior of the refrigerator with OdorXit mixed 1 ounces of OdorXit to 1 quart of water. If the freezer is not built in, it should also be sprayed inside and out. Seams on the interior and gaskets are both areas that need special attention while washing and spraying because they both are areas where spilled foods hide, decompose and produce bad odors.

Next, in the back of many refrigerator there is either a hole in the interior where 2 tubes emerge from the insulation or there is a small air passage that connects the freezer section to the refrigerator section of the unit. Spray this area thoroughly because it is so difficult to wash!

If your freezer is built in to the top on the unit and has vents along the bottom in the front you may need to remove the 4 or 6 screws that hold the floor in place and the plastic floor of the freezer in order to clean the food and goo from the cooling coils and foam blocks that hide within. The foam blocks are very important to the operation of the refrigerator so as number them before taking them out so you can put them back in the proper places after spraying them and the cooling coils with OdorXit solution. If the vents are in the back wall of the freezer, there is no need to access the cooling coils normally because there is no or very little odor causing materials on them.

Finally, close the doors when you are finished spraying the entire interior of the refrigerator with OdorXit solution. The next day, briefly air out your refrigerator to purge the residual OdorXit smell and your refrigerator will be ready for use without the nasty smell!

An hour sent cleaning and spraying OdorXit on a really smelly refrigerator can restore a $300 to $10000 unit to service instead of replacing it with another.

There are a few cases where the odor was so strong and hidden in the tiny gaps between the plastic panels, you may need to us a 5 gram packet of OdorXit ClO₂ to get the last little bit of odor.

Using OdorXit ClO₂

Chlorine dioxide will oxidize/neutralize a wide range of malodors including tobacco smoke, fire smoke, spoiled food, fish, animal scent spray (including cat and skunk), animal and human excrement, bed pan, sick room, and cooking odors. OdorXit ClO₂ also kills mold fungus, mold spores, and many germs that can make us sick like MRSA.

Like all oxidization-based products, OdorXit ClO₂ can neutralize or oxidize a finite amount of material. This being said, if the pouch size used is not large enough to do the job, using another one or larger one will continue the process until it is completed. Subsequent re-contamination as is the case with mold and bacteria, the treatment simply must be repeated. This fact does not detract from the fact that OdorXit ClO₂ is fast acting and completely effective on a very broad range of malodors.

OdorXit ClO₂ is simple to use. When you are ready to start treating an area, remove the outer mylar packaging from the inner Tyvek packet and either place it on a plastic plate or in a plastic cup or place it in the self adhering pouch accompanying the product with a very small amount of water. The Extended Release version will produce gas for 20 to 30 days. The Fast Release version will produce gas for 20 to 30 hours. In either case the same weight packet will produce the same amount of gas. Normally a few drops of water or even the humidity in the room is enough to start and maintain the reaction. If more water is used, ClO₂ will be generated at a higher rate, thereby shorting the time the packet will be active but not reducing the amount of ClO₂ being generated.

Regardless of the type or size of packet used, if the relative humidity is less than 40% or the temperature is lower than freezing the reaction will not take place. Raising the humidity by adding a few (2 to 4 drips) is all that is necessary for the slow release version. More will reduce the life of the packet by as much as 80%. Laying the fast release packet on a damp paper towel will insure that the fast release products has enough water to finish in 20 to 30 hours.

Using a small fan to stir up the air in the area being treated will increase the effectiveness of the treatment significantly. In most cases, a 4 or 7 inch electric fan will do work great. Here is a 4 inch fan available in the hardware department of most WalMart for about $7.00…and yes its made in China, and yes we would like to sell them but buying 10000 it beyond our ability to pay for or store. A 4 to 7 inch fan is a great size for a bathroom or bedroom, but is not big enough for a 1000 to 2000 sq ft basement or family room which needs a 12 to 24 inch fan. Remember, the point is to get the ClO₂ to the odor causing stuff in the are being treated.

The reason for the 2 versions of this product is to address the need to produce effective results in a very short period of time with the Fast Release while the treated area is un-inhabited, or treating the same problem over a longer period of time while it is inhabited.

Keep this and all odor control products out of reach of children

On September 1 2009  I had a fire in my garage that fortunately was confined to the interior of the garage and did not make it to the roof or the interior of my house.

We were very lucky that there was a limited amount of smoke in the house because the door from the mud room to the garage was not closed right away. The problem was made a bit worse because the firemen had a big fan blowing into the front door and out the back door.  This was drawing smoke from outside and forcing it through the house.

Clearly the rooms adjacent to the garage had the worst smoke damage, especially the ceiling. To make the problem harder to fix, the ceiling was popped (textured Spackle) which is nearly impossible to clean so we removed it in preparation for deodorizing and repainting.

We washed the walls, doors and floor with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate and water) and rinsed with fresh water. This stuff is really good at removing smoke residue.

When the washing efforts dried, we used a product called OdorXit CLO2 to remove the rest of the smoke odor. We used the 25 gram fast release packets in the mud room and utility room because we could close the doors and contain the gas and still live in the house while the process was going on.

Usually, a 25 gram packet will do 1000 to 2000 square feet of floor space but because of the level of smoke in the area, the 25 gram was what was actually appropriate and they worked really well.

We used a couple more 25 gram slow release to remove the smoke in the rest of the house.

We followed up with KILZ sealer and fresh paint on the walls and ceiling. Yes, the 2 rooms took 4 days to complete, but we did not have to replace any of the drywall though we did replace all the drywall and 2 car garage door in the garage. The garage took over 3 weeks to complete the repairs on the garage.